Fes, Maroc/Fez, Morocco

After a whirlwind packing up and finding my way to Marseille on Sunday I woke early Monday morning to catch my flight to Fez. Amazingly nothing went wrong, even flying RyanAir. I landed in Fez, went through immigration with no trouble and took a taxi by myself (which cost about 12 euros, just as I had read online. Thank God for rare travel instances when things like taxis really do cost what they should). I haven't decided yet, but if I have time and feel bold enough I might take the airport bus back on Friday because it's only about 2 euros, but the bus is also only once per hour and doesn't really run on a set schedule. If I have extra Dirhams I may as well use them I guess and have the security of knowing I can catch the taxi 2 blocks from my Riad and step out at the airport with plenty of time.

Anyway, I found my Riad easily because the taxi driver handed me off to a university student to walk me into the Medina (and he did NOT expect to be tipped, amazing! I suppose he gets a small cut of the taxi fare). I snoozed for a bit, got settled then took myself to a very elaborate (and kind of pricey) supper nearby. The food was yummy and the service was great, but the whole time I was wishing I had a dinner companion to enjoy the experience with me. I think dining is the one part of traveling solo that is always kind of a bummer, everything else can be tweaked so it's fun on your own but food should always be shared.

On my way back to my Riad last night I somehow managed to get turned around. Keep in mind I literally walked 3-5 blocks away from my Riad and I'm normally pretty talented with navigating cities. A guy wearing an orange vest with a nightstick (neighborhood watch?) asked around for me and we found the place after about 10 minutes of searching. He then said "money?" I gave him the equivalent of 2 euros, the smallest bill in my pocket. The audacity of this tipping business is so strange to me. Not that I mind too much, it wasn't expensive, but the expectation seems so rude. In most places that rely heavily on tourism you'll be hit up for money in any number of more official ways, but generally people in uniforms and working at businesses will be at least begrudgingly helpful because they know tourists are important to their local economies.... but I suppose in their minds I owe them something because I come from a wealthier country. Oh well, that's life and it's part of the experience. I will just have to make greater efforts to find my own way.

Anyway, I slept A LOT last night and today I plan to take my handy Fez City Guide and find my way to the markets and major tourist attractions. If I can manage to see the highlights of the Medina today I'll be pretty pleased. That will free up tomorrow and Thursday for less pressing experiences like visiting a hammam or a side trip to Meknes. In spite of my culture shock and suddenly feeling very white and female (i.e. vulnerable because I'm easily noticed), I am determined to enjoy my days here and make it a good experience. This may mean I have to change myself a bit for the next few days including covering my hair (I'm going to see if wearing a scarf and sunglasses gets me fewer comments like, "hellooo? ca va????" from young boys and old men). I think I will also find this place called Cafe Clock, an English owned cafe near the most famous part of the Medina, in hopes of meeting some other travelers and maybe having someone to walk around with. It can't hurt to poke around, I guess.

OK, I'm starving so I should go seek out my breakfast....